Valorose Tutus and Textiles

Gathering net with Fishing Line

• Different methods and ideas to make the arduous task of gathering metres and metres of net easier.

Starting with a knot in your Fishing Line

• Fishing line can help reduce frustration with double rows of thread gathering. Each method has its place and when you gather with your two rows of stitching you can get a finer gather when attaching to your Panty. Gathering with Fishing line combines two steps into one so helping with time saving.

Zig Zag stitch over the top of the Fishing Line

• When sewing with a zig zag stitch don’t make it too large or too small. The line must be able to move to gather easily. There are different weights and lines and it becomes a bit confusing deciding on which to use.
• My methods are what suits me and everyone has to find the most suitable for their way of sewing. I started out using a 10 LB line which is very fine and flexible. This weight was recommended to me so it was my first use of the method. I found it too flimsy to work with and it didn’t help when trying to attach the gathered net to the Panty. I needed more arms than I had. Next I tried the opposite by using the 50 LB line. Being much stiffer and having a larger cord diameter it was tricky to start with. I used a foot on my machine with a groove in and that helped. A no. 14 Needle and wider zig zag and all worked well.

The gathered net as you are sewing–back view

• The layer I had gathered stood straight and firm and was easy to attach to the Panty. I vary now between a 50 LB and 20 LB line depending on the net I am using. Use logic and practise on scraps to find what is best for you.
• The Green and Black line helps with visibility when sewing onto the Panty and helps keep you sewing over the line. With the memory free line you can use it over and over.

Ending your gathering with a double stitch

Disposing of the fishing line is important as it can harm animals on landfill sites. Cut it up, but too small a piece is easily eaten by birds which is harmful. Find out the best way in your area.

Gathering the Net—-

1. To start gathering tie a knot at one end of the line. Place your net layer flat under your machine foot.
2. Place the Line on top of the net and anchor with a double stitch.
3. Zig zag the line onto the net stopping every now and again to pull into a gather.
4. With experience you will be able to hold the line taut enough so it gathers itself as you sew.
5. At the end of the Layer lock your stitch.
6. Leave enough line for adjustments.

Attaching to your Panty—

• Once your Ruffle is the correct length and it has been prepared you can attach it to your Panty.
  

  The gathered ruffle

• Again zig zag over the Fishing Line on each ruffle.
• Once you are sure the Ruffle is correct you can cut your knot off and gently pull the Line out.
• You can also attach the net to the Panty with a straight stitch and a zipper foot next to the line.
• You will find the method most suitable for you.
• 

  Green or Black Fishing Line helps visibility when sewing and attaching

• The green Fishing Line 40 Lb and 50 Lb comes in small reels of 50 metres The green Fishing Line 20 Lb weight comes in 100 metre small reels The Black Fishing Line is only in 20 Lb weight and comes in 100 metre small reels

Pattern Alterations on a Bodice

Doing a pattern alteration on a Tutu Bodice requires understanding of where and how to alter on the body. Its not a simple case of taking it in where it is too big.

If a pattern is a couple of sizes too small or too big then a different pattern should be purchased. Unless there is an understanding of pattern drafting it is

not advised to alter it too much.

The shape of different seams on the bodice have their purpose and these need to be constant when adjusting it to fit.

The altering of specific lines on the bodice can change the working of the Bodice even if it then fits.

The Bodice should sit central and square on the Torso. Front centre is exactly that–sitting in the centre front.

Over the bust seams should run down the centre of the bust either at a slight angle down for a Long line Bodice or at an angle towards the centre front point of the

Classical Bodice.

Sides–The sides should sit under the armpit and be in alignment with the side of the body.

Centre Back– The centre back should be in the exact centre of the back.

Once these seams are in place and correct on the Body then other seams can be adjusted.

Each side should be fitted to the Dancer as the left and right sides of the body are different and it can’t be presumed they will match exactly when adjusting.

Quite often the different dance disciplines develop different muscles and these need to be accounted for.

The over the bust seam should only be adjusted on the middle panel and not the centre panel. (depending of course on what you are taking in or out)

A larger or smaller bust line is simply adjusted over the bust side panels with a small change to the centre front depending which you are doing.

The importance of adjusting correctly allows for the Bodice to fit firmly against the body and for the Dancer to feel free to move unrestricted.

If Boning is used on the seams then the understanding of what the bone is doing and why it is in that place should be researched or understood thoroughly.

A bone in an incorrect seam could distort the Bodice and so restrict the Dancer.

Nape or Girth adjusting–

The length is of utmost importance on the body as the waist should sit in the waist so anchoring the bodice—on a Classical Bodice.

The Long line Bodice also needs to fit in at the waist but this is less important when the Basque and waistband are beneath the Bodice doing the anchoring.

A Bodice which is too short in the girth or nape means the top half of the Body could be overexposed. Once a Dancer is moving the Bodice waist will be anchored to the waist and lifting her arms would have more of the chest exposed. This is worse on a fuller busted Dancer as her bust area needs to be totally secure.

Adjusting a pattern for a fuller busted Dancer requires the middle front panel to be altered along with opening out the central bustline. The corresponding centre front has to have that extra piece added to allow for the longer curve over the new bustline.

Back adjustments are more simple as the back is flatter and the middle back panel is easily changed. The back nape measurement is important as a guide but during a fitting has to be checked that it is sitting firmly in the waist so securing the front of the Bodice.

Different height back bodices perform different functions and are not just aesthetically pleasing.

A higher back as for a Longline bodice can be more important in a heavily partnered role as it is more firmly anchored to the body. They are also easily adapted for different size dancers.

Although some bodices have a very low back for these roles it usually means a very small dancer.

There are no hard and fast rules and sometimes you need to change according to what you are faced with at that time, the best way that works.

Gorgeous new Metallic Appliques

Absolutely love these new Appliques I have just received.

They are from the same manufacturer as the Metallic Trims I posted an article about on the 20th November.

The Metallic embroidery is so lovely and the weight and look of these are very unusual.

They are made from the same threads as the Trims and are an exact match.

They will be added to the Trims and Appliques section in the Shop.

They are more pricey than the standard Appliques but this I think,

is due to their better quality and uniqueness.